1. Yangon/Rangoon
The Chinese New Year atmosphere still lingered.
Gongsi Sit Teik Tong was the first stop we had. My Great-Grand father, Yeo Cheow Kaw, built this mansion to house the association he was running. The clan association, known earlier as Sie Tow Gongsi, had been using the Kheng Hock Temple for its activities before the building was completed in 1925. Standing at the entrance gave me a sense of passage in time.
The building halls were full of plaques and couplets. The most valuable one could be the one honouring my Great-Grand father by Yuan Shi Kai, the first President of the Republic of China.
The building faces Yangong River. Great-Grand father believed that the eastward-running river would be able to carry his reminiscence of his hometown, Xiayang.
We found our way to Soo Tee Tong, the “four-knows” club set up for the Hokkien Yeo’s. Most walls in the hall were bare, believed to have been ripped of many of the old hangings. There weren’t any old books about the club kept here either. Four-knows refer to the teaching of “heaven knows, earth knows, you know and I know”, from a legendary story about an ancestor Yeo.
This is a building constructed by Great-Grand father. It was a premises for Teong Hwa School, the oldest formal Chinese School in Rangoon. As Burma nationalized, it was converted into a Burmese school.
These old blackboards, tables, chairs, windows and stairways spoke to us quietly about their school memories.
Khian Teck Tong is a club for the Hokkiens in Myanmar. A sourvenir magazine contains a few pages on my Great-Grand father. It was recorded that Yeo Cheow Kaw was the 2nd President of the Fifth Committee in 1909.
This inscription in the Chinese Chamber of Commerce named Great-Grandfather as one of its founders.
Kheng Hock Temple was one of the earliest communal places for Myanmar Chinese. This is also where the predecessor of Sit Teik Tong, the Sie Tow Gongsi, started its operation.
We found the business names of our Great-Grand father: Heng Moh and Yeo Chip Moh, on the inscription that lists the founding donors.
Here in the Chinese Library, we were hoping to find more resources. But the chronicles were in Burmese.
We were hoping to locate the villa of Great-Grand father, knowing it to be around Lim Chin Siong’s Palace.
Praying at the tomb of Third Great Uncle, the father of the three accompanying uncle and aunties.
The discovery of an inscribed donation of Third Great Uncle in 1966 awed the three descendants who don’t read or write Chinese.
At an Aunty’s house, we met eight of her adopted children, all coming from the remote destitute areas. We saw not a wealthy home but the Aunty has persisted for many years. Look at the smiles of the children. This is their home, their paradise, with food, clothings and books.
The Shwedagon
Shoes are off in all temples, big or small. Visitors walk bare-footed, the same way Buddha did with his deepest kindness to all living things under his feet.
Surrounding the Shwedagon are statues and pagodas built specially for visitors born on different days of the week. From Monday to Sunday, each seeks solace and blessings according to his or her birthday.
Precious stones were crafted on the top of the Shwedagon.
2. Mandalay
Only men are allowed to paste golden strips on the Budda statue in the Maha Muni Pagoda, a pagoda built in jadestones.
Even the floors, which soothed the bare feet with their coolness.
Mingun Pagoda is an incomplete pagoda. It should be the biggest pagoda in the world if completed. The cracks were caused by earthquakes.
Loved walking across, barefooted on sandstones.
Felt great from the top of Mingun Pagoda, after climbing up barefooted.
U Bein Bridge, known for its beautiful sunset view, is one of the oldest and longest teak-wood bridge. It was built in 1850, measuring 1.2km. The locals call it “The Lovers’ Bridge”.
It ought to be smoky underneath. But due to weather change, it’s a different scene.
Mandalay Mahagandayon Monastery is one of the biggest, most renowned monasteries in Burma.
The monks’ silent lunch is this monastery’s main attraction. But alas, we were a little late.
Stone Tablets in the monastry.
Mahagandayon’s founder’s memorial hall. He devoted his entire life to the temple, writing scriptures and conducting sermons.
Mandalay Palace beckoned us with its grandeur of her past glory. But within it, it is vastly empty.
Each of the 1774 smaller pagodas surrounding the golden pagoda houses a stone tablet inscribed with the Tripitaka. I was simply awed and speechless at the sight.
This golden palace monastery is completely built with beautifully crafted teak.
Looking down from Mandalay Hill, visitors waited for sunset.
3. Oatdwin, Daiku and Oakpho
Oatdwin – we only know this town as a site for the rice business of Great-Grand father, the specific location unknown.
We would like to imagine his rice mill to be comparable in size to this, which is of course machine-operated. Surely it was more difficult in his time.
In Daik-U, we met Mr Lim Beng Hong, the current President of the local Khian Teck Temple. It was he who showed us the marked pages in the souvenir magazine containing the official titles of our Great-Grand father during his service at the Rangoon Khian Teck Temple. Mr Lim has been compiling the history of Chinese community in the Daik-U area. Talking with people like him, you feel the utmost noble anxiety towards sustaining the Chinese culture.
Oakpho, another identifed town for the rice business of Great-Grand father but again, exact site unknown.
We found another rice mill here, smaller and yet shrouded in the same hospitality of the owner. They were more than enthusiastic to help answer our questions regarding our roots. Nothing positive emerged, but it was enough to motivate us to continue with our pursuit.
“You watch views on the bridge; Watchers view you in return. Moonlight adorns your windows; You adorn others’ dreams.”
